We can do tricep pulldowns with a wrist ulnar deviation, kettlebell or Not climbing, but I had spent last little while doing wrist stuff from armwrestling training, and then when trying either the sloper on my hangboard or boulders I’ve noticed a huge increase in my capability. This severity of injury is unlikely with most climbing injuries unless there was a form of trauma involved. For me the problem came about when I started doing a lot of climbing on slopers in the gym, because slopers work the inside belly of the wrist and forearm much more commonly than the outside belly of the wrist and forearm, which not only throws the wrist out of line during use but also builds the muscles underneath in an uneven way Oct 4, 2022 · This article originally appeared on Climbing Boost your resilience and climb smarter with this training program geared for injury-free climbing by “The Climbing Doctor,” Dr. Note: you may also need to avoid some slopers as this will activate the lumbricals a bit, so just make sure you aren’t overdoing it and causing pain after climbing. , underclings, slopers) May 14, 2021 · Start casually climbing at least a few grades below your max, and work your way up! Avoid climbs with pockets or small holds initially. g. Wrist curls, both ways Forearm stretches, like a lot of it Squeeze balls Finger extensor exercise with a rubber band Wrist hurting (and popping) on slopers As I got heavily into bouldering the past five years, one constant issue I've had is my left wrist popping and hurting while pulling (usually semi-open palmed) on sloper. ? Unlock stronger sends! Discover effective grip strength exercises for climbing, from hangboards to injury prevention. Went to a climbing specific physio, she told me I had nerve irritation. Dec 30, 2024 · Most wrist pain in climbers is manageable, and with the right strategies, you can keep climbing smarter and stronger for years to come. So, to help you climb stronger and reduce likelihood of injury, let’s talk about three effective exercises to enhance wrist stability. Only happens on my left wrist, I am right handed. If higher intensity is the only option, reduce volume instead, and only do a few attempts on slopers per session (whatever you can handle without pain). Do wrist exercises. The exercises are trying to make the antagonistic muscles stronger in your forearm, as you usually just train the protagonists for climbing. Got misdiagnosed at one physio who said I had tendonitis. Jared Vagy. Oct 4, 2022 · If slopers cause you wrist pain, allow us to present the fix. Avoid slopers, underclings and pushing out. Feb 23, 2024 · Learn effective strategies for climbing wrist pain: warm-up, gear, technique, strength, rest, nutrition, and professional help. Instead of letting go I tried to finish the problem, which induced some terrible feelings and inaudible sounds. Slopers can often be difficult on the wrist since they I saw a physio for my wrist. However, there are specific injuries common among rock climbers that can occur. Attempted Solutions: Wrist pushups, wrist curls, and rice bucket, but the issue still persists. Do some research on them and add it to your routine (on a non-climbing day to reduce the likelihood of injury). Mostly I used wrist curls with a large handle on a cable machine I get pain on the thumb side of my left wrist occasionally. I had chronic wrist pain, especially on slopers. May 7, 2021 · Significant tear: if you have significant pain and loss of function, you may have a higher level injury that may need to be assessed immediately by a medical professional and you shouldn’t really be watching this video. I have also found that the Wrist Widget helps quite a bit so I always wear it during climbing now. That being said slopers are my favorite type of hold. I feel like I’m pretty strong within weightlifting metrics but wanted to improve my bench (possible contributor to TFCC injury!). Physio said, stop climbing for a bit, work on flexibility, then strengthen, and finally ease back into climbing. I didn't know what was up. Slopers tend to be worse but sometimes it just happens on crimps/pinches. This usually helps with wrist pain, I also just do them for general training and to take pressure off my elbow (it helps a LOT with climbers elbow). I was wondering, does this happen to anybody else and do you find any type of training prevents it? I once had my lunate pop out of place when pulling on a sloper. Pinching, slopers, crimping, everything that required wrist stability hurt him. If your gym only sets slopers on harder problems, you can try climbing the slopers using any feet. Aug 11, 2025 · Swelling or tenderness along the ulnar side of the wrist Limited range of motion, particularly in rotation Pain with ulnar deviation (tilting the wrist toward the pinky side) Increased pain during daily activities like twisting a doorknob, using tools, or certain climbing movements (e. This makes them more prone to injury due to an inability to handle the strain and stress placed upon them while climbing. 20 years old, been climbing for 5 years. Sep 17, 2024 · Wrist injuries in climbing tend to present with trouble in a plank or push up position, pinky sided wrist pain, clicking or catching, and pain with certain hold positions like a gaston, sloper, or mantle. Learn more! Oct 4, 2022 · Wrist and Forearm Anatomy To understand why our wrists may feel unstable with slopers, we must first grasp the wrist’s basic anatomy. Mar 10, 2024 · Specifically, climbing on too many sloping holds can lead to wrist pain. Learn to train slopers off the wall with the Heavy Roller. Jul 10, 2015 · I get pain on the thumb side of my left wrist occasionally. Why do some climbers experience pain and/or instability in their wrists when climbing on slopers? It's pretty simple, actually!If you're dealing with this is Neutral wrist positions such as crimps and normal climbing are fine. I've torn my Scapholunate Ligaments in EACH of my wrists by climbing on big slopers. I was also advised to do more wrist isolation and rice bucket exercises. I'm not sure about the disconnected part, but it hurts on slopers too. Dr Nov 27, 2024 · Your grip strength will be reduced. Jan 10, 2017 · I developed this exact problem with my wrist a few years back. Seems to work for me but maybe only outside on grit perhaps. 7/10 times I would get an uncomfortable popping feeling in my right wrist. Jul 18, 2022 · Experts say that the wrist should be bent slightly when using slopers for maximum strength and leverage. I was at a climbing competition climbing on a steep wall and I grabbed a giant sloper attached to a volume and my wrist did the dislocation thing. In addition to building your sloper volume gradually, you can add in wrist warm ups and strengthening exercise if slopers are causing you wrist pain. Complete stop on stretching, and did trigger point in neck, hips and forearm. Feb 23, 2020 · We offer our advice on the top 7 most common climbing injuries, how to spot problems occuring and how to avoid them in the first place. So take what I say with a grain of salt. I know people tape their writs for climbing for more stability but I just don’t get what moves require that much stability on the wrists. Pain all but vanished! I can’t speak to your problem exactly but do get wrist pain after doing lots of climbing / training for climbing without any antagonist work (ie things my physio suggested). Wrist curls (regular and reverse). I had such pain on gym routes in the 7 grade which were all slopers or mix of mostly slopers. Most common climbing injuries are prevented by warming up properly, climbing with correct technique, and stretching beforehand. Reccomended stretching excercise etc but that didn’t help. Eccentric reverse curls Again, two-handed is preferred for efficiency and because with a one-hand setup you are more likely to leave the pronated position of the wrist and rather will perform more of a hammer curl which will work your brachioradialis more, rather than working the wrist extensors. #1: Weak FDP The biggest anatomical risk factor is a direct lack of strength of the FDP muscles themselves. I have a self-diagnosed TFCC injury in my dominant (Right) hand. You might have an imbalance from all the pulling. But with the proper technique and training you needn't worry anymore. My fingers and knuckles are really healthy luckily. Neck makes 90% of the Do wrist curls and wrist extensions 5-6 days a week. Sep 14, 2023 · Understanding Climbing Wrist Injuries Climbing presents challenges that can sometimes lead to injuries, especially when it comes to the wrists. It always seems to happen on my hangboard slopers and occasionally when bouldering. Not climbing, but I had spent last little while doing wrist stuff from armwrestling training, and then when trying either the sloper on my hangboard or boulders I’ve noticed a huge increase in my capability. Climbing slopers and mantling will be painful. The pain extends down my arm for about an inch or so. When climbing keep your wrist straight. I primarily boulder and was hoping to really increase my climbing volume and skill building but fate seems to point me otherwise for the time being. Slopers can often be difficult on the wrist since they Over time you can ramp up the difficulty. I was advised to engage my wrist more (flexing the hand in a way that the top of the wrist contracts). Mar 31, 2020 · 2. If you bend your wrist (once healed) enough to use your arm too for extra friction it's similar to a gymnast utilising a false grip on the rings. Reminder to always consult a medical provider therapy if you are having pain with movement. This position of slight wrist flexion is known as the "open-pack" or "loose-pack" position which is an I failed a climber in pain and this is what I learned as a climbing PT He was a boulder with chronic elbow tendon pain on both sides on both arms. Other people climb once in a while as a weekend activity. Strengthening the wrist flexors and other forearm muscles helps with this. This is why pocket training is better than the slopers on the hangboard for improving slopers Any weak links in the forearm in terms of hand/forearm positioning with the sloper and tension through the wrist. Feb 22, 2017 · If you're a climber suffering from wrist pain, here's an article by physical therapist Uzo Ehiogu that explains what may be causing it. In particular I've found that slopers flare the pain in the wrist. Tendonitis, characterized by inflammation of the tendons causing pain in the hands, wrists, and forearms, is a result of overusing the wrist joints or improper gripping techniques. Once your pain gets noticeably less in the mornings, you can start doing exercises that involve the entire kinetic chain. Slopers causing wrist pain, any advice on how to strengthen wrists welcome I (23F) have been bouldering for just over a year and am now mostly climbing up to V4 and projecting some V5s. Anytime a route has a big sloper or anything that's not deep, my right wrist seems… Been climbing 10ish years off and on and occasionally used to try a problem with slopers. With the right training and gear, rock climbing is generally a safe activity. I have a theory that people with wrist pain and/or TFCC (myself included) crimp incorrectly. I do a lot of bouldering and I've been running into some issues. 4 sets of 10 reps. It hurt during extension for a week until my PT pulled some traction on my wrist and popped it back into place. Nov 8, 2023 · Skills Injuries and Medical Advice: Wrist Pain Nagging wrist pain, origin possibly skateboarding, affects climbing for years. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Rock climbing has an increased following in the last several decades. After doing them, slopers feel easier since I don't have to work so hard at pressing with the wrist towards the hold. And the wrist may pop and clunk when shaking someone’s hands suggesting wrist joint instability. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dec 16, 2022 · Finger strength might be a climber's bread and butter, but the wrists aren't far off. Our wrists are engineering marvels, combining flexibility, strength, and precision. Mostly I used wrist curls with a large handle on a cable machine Jul 26, 2021 · Hooper’s Beta Ep. Jul 7, 2022 · Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. Sep 15, 2023 · 7 exercises to help weak wrists and improve wrist stability when climbing. . Depending on the grade you’re climbing - even getting low on slopers, when you have to engage them, you may have some wrist pain. This should give more stabilisation in your forearms which results in less pressure on the wrists. 2,365 likes, 24 comments - theclimbingdoctor on April 4, 2024: "⚪ Wrist pain with slopers? Check out this video for a “movement with mobilization” that a physical therapist may perform to reduce pain in your wrist while in the sloper position. Warming up includes making sure every bit of your body is ready to work, as climbing is a full body workout. rocks with some great tips: When we climb on slopers, our wrists are in a slightly flexed position. 3,570 likes, 32 comments - theclimbingdoctor on January 20, 2024: "Have you ever experienced wrist pain or instability while climbing on slopers? If so, check out this post by @physio. I've considered doing modified wrist pushups and curls in a more "false grip" position, but it's awkward and I haven't done it long enough to see if it works. Since I don't engage the ulnar side of my wrist (lack of pinky during crimps) I never really developed ulnar side wrist stabilization and pinky strength. #2: Weak Shoulders Lack of Aug 16, 2021 · Are you feeling wrist pain when you climb on underclings, gastons, slopers or any other hold type where you need to apply force while bending your wrist? If you’ve sustained a wrist injury and been told by a medical professional that you’re okay to climb, but that climbing is causing you pain, then taping may be able to help you. Treatment In the acute situation this needs to be managed with a trip to accident and emergency because large tears may require surgery. 90 RISK FACTORS There are three main anatomical traits, or risk factors, that can make your FDP more prone to injury. Even if there is no pain now, it will likely develop into pain if you keep climbing hard on slopers. I'd probably stop climbing on slopers because they commonly cause wrist problems. Master holds & crush plateaus. The pain radiates throughout my wrist, it seems to have more to do with anything that is "above" it, so higher up the arm. Build more resilient wrists to maximize your grip and the potential of your precious fingers. Here are key wrist-stabilizing exercises and a review of techniques. Many people pursue rock-climbing as a serious hobby.

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